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Old Tokyo

By on March 27, 2018

Living in one of the more modern neighborhoods of Tokyo, it’s easy to forget that this city dates back hundreds of years. Yet, there are little nooks and crannies, meandering streets, and other reminders of what life in old ‘Edo’ might have been like. Yanaka is one of those seemingly untouched enclaves – a quiet neighborhood adjacent to Ueno, that managed to escape not only the fires that plagued Tokyo in the 1600’s and 1700’s, but also the destruction of the Kanto earthquake and World War II.

Despite its small size, Yanaka is home to more than 70 temples.After a major fire in 1657, temples from around the Edo castle were relocated to Yanaka. As the concentration of temples in the area grew, residents from all over Edo began to travel to the peaceful, beautiful neighborhood for worship. Yanaka’s reputation spread, and many artists and writers settled there, amidst the narrow alleyways and sloping hills.

The only way to explore this area is on foot. Start at Nippori Station, and walk the short distance to one of the largest cemeteries in Tokyo. With more than 7,000 headstones, the peaceful Yanaka Reien houses the graves of many famous writers and artists. Also within the cemetery is Tennoji Temple, dating back more than 500 years.
As you exit the cemetery, you’ll come across dozens of smaller temples, as well as a few more well- known ones, including Choanji Temple, Kannonji Temple, Daienji and Nezu Shrine. thousands of cherry trees in and around the temple grounds, so if you go in the spring, be sure to carry your camera.

At times, you’ll find yourself on a residential street, wondering where you made the wrong turn. Just keep walking – there’s no direct route… you’ll come across another striking temple a few steps away.
When you’re done meandering, head to Yanaka Ginza for a bit of shopping. You won’t find any department stores here – just old-fashioned shops selling traditional wares – teas, baskets, o-sembe, and sweets. At the top of the stairs, don’t miss the bizarrely out-of-place Persian restaurant, Zakuro, for great food and a very entertaining dining experience.

Where: Taito-ku, Tokyo
Nearest Station: Nippori Station, North Exit by JR Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku or Keisei
For a free Walking Tour Map, see: www. digi-promotion.com/tokyo-neighborhoods/ yanaka/yanaka_tour1.html

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