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OBIKA: Food fusioning

By on December 25, 2008
Silvio Ursini of the famed Bulgari was recently in Japan to inaugurate the opening of the much-talked-about Obika, the 10th addition to his chain of Mozarella bars worldwide.   

How did the mozzarella concept come about?
Well, I’ve had this idea for a very long time. There was a place in my hometown Napoli where people would line up in a long queue to buy mozzarella and prosciutto served in small dishes. So I said to myself, "Wow! People must like mozzarella that much to not only eat them at home but also in the streets!" On my first visit to Japan 20 years ago, I had my first sushi bar experience and was impressed by its beautiful presentation, the ritual-like preparation, food display, the counter seating.  It dawned on me to put up a mozzarella bar infused with the Japanese sushi presentation.  For many years, I have kept this idea locked up somewhere until five years ago when I finally had the chance to actually execute the concept.  We opened the first in Rome, followed by Milano and then London. Today, we have 10 mozzarella bars worldwide including New York and Kuwait. Roppongi Hills is our 10th.

How do you find Japan?
I have been totally in love with Japan ever since my first visit here. I’ve been inspired by their way of doing things. I really think it’s a unique place to be.  The Japanese know a lot about Italy so I also want to see more Italians to come here and learn about Japan.

Tell us how you think Japan will react to mozzarella a la sushi.
I think the reaction we’ve had from Japanese clients in Rome and Milan has been very, very positive. I think the Japanese clients appreciate the freshness and also the fact that there is an interesting fusion of 2 different traditional foods.  Japanese customers are very curious and well-informed.  They read books,  the Internet, and practically know about the foods they eat.  This will raise their level of curiosity.

What makes mozzarella special?
The rich and tasty flavour made possible by grass-fed buffalos.  Mozzarella in Italy is hand made using the mozaturra process (lopping off) that makes each piece a labour of love.  This time-honoured recipe has been handed on from one generation to another and is still going strong.

Does the taste vary according to region?
Yes.  Within the protected region, the taste slightly differs.  The area near Rome is more tasty while the South has a more delicate taste to it.  We serve both kinds here so people can have a try.  The taste also varies with the season because of the grass condition and the temperature.  In the spring, it’s sweeter; in the winter, it’s slightly more bitter. So it’s a really delicate food product that has a special quality to it.  Mozzarella is a great accompaniment to other Italian products like prosciutto, parma ham, salmon, or simple veggies, the basil pesto sans garlic which is uniquely the house’s recipe. You can order any topping to go with it.

Do you offer something for vegetarians?
Yes. You have either the cherry tomatoes with the basil pesto, grilled vegetables or the vegetable casserole. Aside from the mozzarella bar, we have a few other dishes like salads, simple tuna, salmon, with or without mozzarella. We also have some antipasti, starters.  My favorite is the warm buffalo ricotta.  While I prefer it baked, some like it fried, both of which we have.  Other available dishes on the menu are pasta, rice, eggplant parmesan, ravioli and the specials.

In Rome, how did the taste appeal to children?
Children come particularly on weekends. We do the Italian brunch, and children love it. Mozzarella has a sort of sweet, milky taste, children like. Our pasta dishes with mozzarella and tomato is very, very child-friendly. And the cakes are amazingly good.  We keep the traditional recipes intact like almond and chocolate cakes.  Family brunch is not yet available in Japan but is in the works.

How would you comment on Italian and Japanese cuisines?
I think food-wise, Italians and Japanese share the same affinity for simplicity and naturalness in food presentation, taste and texture.

What kind of people do you want to target at Obika?
Actually, we don’t have a specific target in mind because the food we serve at Obika appeals to all kinds of people, young and old, men or women.  Lunch time is really something fast, simple, fresh, inexpensive, so it will obviously catch on with people who are out shopping or working and who want to take something  other than  a sandwich or a fast-food meal.  At dinner time, it’s more like a restaurant.

What would be a typical bill for lunch and dinner?
For lunch, we have set menus that start at ¥1,200 that go up to ¥1,700 for the set menu.  A nice meal with wine and everything for dinner costs about ¥4,000-¥5,000. So it’s really affordable.

What does Obika want to be known for?
Classic food and contemporary atmosphere. 

Name a popular item on the menu?
The selezzione.  It’s got all 3 different tastes in one plate:  Paestum (delicate), Pontina (Sweet) and Affumicata (strong, smokey) that you can share with the family.

Tip:  Never leave the prosciuttos out.  They go well together.

Any parting words for families heading to Obika?
Buon appetito!

Located in B1F of Roppongi Hillside
Open 11am-11pm on weekdays. Fri/Sat & the day before holidays, 11am-4am. Tel: 03-5786-6400. www.wondertable.com

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